Centella / Cica
Centella / Cica
INCICentella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid
The herb that turned Korean dermatology into a category. Four triterpene saponins that calm redness, repair the barrier, and quietly rebuild collagen. The strongest evidence base of any K-beauty hero ingredient.
What you need to know
What it is
Extract of Centella asiatica, a small herb native to wetlands across Asia. Standardised for its four active triterpenes: madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid. Together they are often called the MAMA complex or simply cica.
What it does
Calms redness and inflammation. Strengthens the skin barrier. Stimulates collagen type I and III synthesis. Speeds wound healing. The same compounds used in clinical scar gels and post procedure dermatology creams across Asia.
Best for
Sensitive skin, reactive skin, post acne marks, post procedure recovery (after lasers, peels, microneedling), early signs of aging where the goal is rebuilding rather than resurfacing. Compatible with almost every other active.
Time to results
Calming and redness reduction: within days to two weeks. Barrier repair: two to four weeks. Collagen building and scar improvement: studied over 8 to 24 weeks. One of the more patient ingredients in skincare.
How it actually works
Centella's effects come from four related triterpenes acting on different parts of skin biology. They are not the same. The ratio matters.
Collagen synthesis
Asiaticoside and madecassoside upregulate TGF beta signalling in fibroblasts, increasing collagen type I and type III. This is the same mechanism that drives wound healing and the slow rebuild of weakened skin.
Anti inflammatory
Madecassoside in particular inhibits NF kB activation, reducing inflammatory cytokine release at the skin surface. This is why centella formulas calm visible redness and itching within days.
Barrier repair
The triterpenes support the synthesis of barrier lipids in the stratum corneum and reinforce tight junctions between keratinocytes. Daily use over weeks produces measurable improvement in transepidermal water loss.
Antioxidant + antimicrobial
Free radical scavenging across multiple mechanisms. Mild antimicrobial activity that does not disrupt the normal skin microbiome. The whole plant chemistry sits closer to a barrier supporter than an aggressive active.
What the clinical data shows
Centella has been studied in scarring, wound healing, photoaging, atopic dermatitis, and barrier function. The evidence base is unusually broad for a botanical.
Multiple RCTs showing reduction in scar height, redness, and pliability when applied for 12 to 24 weeks (Sidgwick 2015, Widgerow 2008)
Improved skin firmness and reduced wrinkle depth in 0.1% madecassoside trials at 6 months (Haftek 2008)
Significant reduction in flare frequency and severity in pediatric and adult studies of madecassoside containing emollients
Across all studies. Suitable for sensitive skin, peri eye area, and post procedure use.
Centella vs the alternatives
Ceramides patch the barrier from the lipid side, replacing what is missing. Centella supports the cells that build the barrier in the first place. Layer them for both immediate seal and slow rebuild.
Niacinamide also reduces redness and supports barrier. Centella is gentler at high concentration and has stronger collagen rebuilding data. Stack both for a barrier and tone routine.
Panthenol is a small molecule humectant and mild anti inflammatory. Centella is bigger biology, slower acting, stronger effect on collagen. Often paired together in Korean post procedure creams.
Both antioxidant and anti inflammatory. Green tea (EGCG) leans antioxidant and sebum control. Centella leans barrier repair and collagen. Different jobs in a routine.
Allantoin is a simple keratin softener and soothing agent at lower cost. Centella delivers all of that plus collagen and active anti inflammatory chemistry. If budget allows, centella is the stronger pick.
Side effects and how to use
Products with centella
Centella sits in our Hydra Radiance Rice Milk Toner as part of the calming and barrier complex. The cards below are the routine partners we recommend layering with it for a complete K beauty calming routine.
Pair with
Melt Cleansing Balm
Oil to milk cleanseRemoves makeup and SPF without disrupting the barrier centella is rebuilding.
Shop the balm → EFRESHMEFairyGlow Wand
LED + microcurrentRed LED supports collagen synthesis on the same axis as centella. Microcurrent adds firmness.
Shop the wand → EFRESHMEIceLift Facial Globes
Cryo coolingStainless steel cryo globes. Reduces flushing and de puffs in minutes. Perfect finisher after a centella toner step.
Shop the globes →Common questions
What is the difference between centella and cica?
They are the same plant. Centella asiatica is the botanical name. Cica is the Korean cosmetic shorthand, popularised by K beauty around 2017. Some brands use cica to mean the standardised triterpene complex specifically (madecassoside plus asiaticoside), but the words are used interchangeably.
Can I use centella with retinol?
Yes. Centella is one of the most reliable buffer ingredients to pair with retinoids. Apply centella first as a calming layer, then retinol. The barrier support and anti inflammatory action of centella often reduces the irritation phase that comes with starting a retinoid.
Will centella help acne scars?
Centella is one of the few ingredients with controlled trial data for scar appearance. It is best for the colour and redness of post inflammatory marks, and for softening the texture of hypertrophic scars over weeks of consistent use. Indented scars from acne require different interventions (microneedling, RF, fillers).
Is centella safe in pregnancy?
Topical cosmetic use at standard concentrations is generally considered fine. Oral centella supplements at therapeutic doses are not recommended in pregnancy. As with any new ingredient during pregnancy, speak to your doctor or dermatologist.
Why does Korean skincare lean so heavily on centella?
Korean dermatology has used centella in post procedure protocols (after lasers, peels, and acne extractions) for decades. When K beauty brands started building daily cosmetics, they pulled the same active out of the dermatology playbook and into routine use. The result is consumer products with clinical level ingredients.
How do I tell a strong centella product from a sticker label one?
Look in the INCI. A formula doing the work names madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, or madecassic acid (or a standardised complex like Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract at the top half of the ingredient list). A formula with only Centella Asiatica Extract listed near the bottom is using it as a marketing token, not a functional concentration.
The evidence
- Bylka W, et al (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii 30(1):46 to 49.
- Sidgwick GP, McGeorge D, Bayat A (2015). A comprehensive evidence based review on the role of topicals and dressings in the management of skin scarring. Includes centella.
- Ratz Lyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K (2016). Moisturising and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract.
- Haftek M, et al (2008). Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long term effects of a topical treatment with 0.1% madecassoside on photoaged skin.
- Liu M, et al (2008). Madecassoside isolated from Centella asiatica herbs facilitates burn wound healing. Planta Medica.